Friday, September 2, 2016

How to Walk a Small Dog in Deep Snow

Walking a small dog in deep snow isn't always the best idea, but there are reasons to do so. Perhaps you have a hyper dog that needs walking, or you need to travel somewhere on foot. If you have to venture out into the deep snow with your small dog, start with step 1, below.

Part1
Considering The Risks

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    Be sure it's necessary. Most small dogs are short-haired, and snowy temperatures can drop to several degrees below zero. You need to think seriously about whether or not your small dog needs to be walked in the snow. There are many dangers to walking a dog in the snow, and you don't want to accidentally lose your little friend to the cold.
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    Consider alternatives. If there's a way to exercise your small dog in the house, such as a tennis ball or chew toy, try that instead. If you need to get somewhere with your small dog, he or she may be small enough to carry in a backpack or in your arms.
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    Use your local weather channel or the internet to check to see if warmer weather may be on its way. If so, it would be wiser to wait for that. Also be sure to check if the black ice risks are high, in which case no one should be out at all.

Part2
Preparing Before The Walk

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    Plan to go when it's warmest. If you absolutely have to or want to walk your small dog out in the snow, you need to know how to prepare your dog for his or her walk. He or she will need protection from the cold, as well as you. Check the weather for the 'warmest' time of the snowy day.
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    Dress your small dog in a jacket and dog boots. It may look ridiculous to some people, but it's your friend's best defense against the chill. Choose the right jacket: a knit or windbreaker-like jacket isn't a wise choice for thick snow. A better jacket would be a two layer fleece and nylon coat. If you get your pet boots to protect his or her feet, make sure they fit securely. If they're too tight they could hurt your dog's feet, if they're too loose they will fill with snow and defeat the purpose.
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    Pick a harness for your pup. Don't use his or her collar, because if they slip on any ice they could get choked by the leash and collar. A harness also allows them to breathe better, which is helpful in the cold.
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    Check one more time for temperatures and black ice. Make sure there isn't many clouds or a storm expected at any time that day-- it could hit while you and your friend are out and gravely endanger you both.
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    If you will be returning home after your walk, pop a few towels or a blanket in the dryer set on low. These will come in handy for warming up your pet upon return.
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    If you must go on a walk at night, be aware that the snow might be frozen and there's a greater chance for ice. You may even get lost. It's a very bad idea to go out in these conditions

Part3
Being Safe On The Walk

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    Choose a good route. If you're coming home after the walk, choose a short, even route. If you are traveling somewhere, decide the quickest and most even way to get there. Try your best to avoid hills, you and your pet will have difficulty tackling them.
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    Start your walk. If the snow is two times deeper than your dog is high, consider staying home, for it is incredibly dangerous for your dog at that point. If not, walk in front of your dog so you can tramp down a path for him or her. If the snow comes up to your dog's chest, do the same thing. If the snow comes halfway up your dogs legs, you can let your dog lead until you see it get reluctant to walk through the snow any further.
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    Walk slow. Not so much at a crawl, but don't run. There could be ice hidden under the snow.
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    Keep a close eye on your dog. If your less than or halfway through your walk and your dog is showing signs of freezing, like whimpering, acting angry or slow and groggy, immediately turn around. If your dog starts acting like this more than halfway, try pressing on, but keep a better watch on your friend.Image titled Walk a Small Dog in Deep Snow Step 14
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    If he or she refuses to walk any further, don't make him or her. Pick your dog up and carry it, or put it in your jacket to warm it up, then try walking him or her again. If he or she refuses at that point, collapses, or starts getting sleepy or aggressive, pick him or her up and head for home immediately.Image titled Walk a Small Dog in Deep Snow Step 15
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    Monitor your pet's winter wear. If his or her jacket starts going sideways, stop and fix it. If one of his or her boots is slipping off, stop and put it on again. Don't ignore even slight misplacements of your pet's clothing. Fix it so your pet doesn't have to add the discomfort to the already big issue of cold.Image titled Walk a Small Dog in Deep Snow Step 16
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    Once your walk is over, proceed into the house immediately. If you have other dogs or cats, get them away from your small dog until you can get its clothing off and give it a chance to rest and warm up.
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    Take off the coat and boots, along with the leash and harness. Chances are, they're wet from the snow, so hang them up somewhere to dry or toss them in the dryer. You must take good care of your dog's clothing if you want to use it again.
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    If you threw towels or blankets in the dryer, wrap your small dog up in them to warm it up. If you haven't, show your dog its bed. Let it sleep if it wants to.
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    Make sure there's food and water in your pet's dish. After the cold walk, a nice meal and drink might be just what it needs.
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    Try to stay calm for the rest of the day. The walk was probably a big event for your dog, so he or she's probably had enough excitement for the day.
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    Watch your dog for the first few hours after the walk. If it won't eat or drink or falls asleep and won't wake up, or remains groggy for a long time, consult a vet immediately.
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    Allow a time gap of a few days or up to a week before taking your dog out again. He or she doesn't need that stress on him or her every day. If your dog was in distress during the walk, don't take it out in the snow like that again.

How to Walk a Dog on Ice

No matter how cold it is outside, your dog still needs to take care of business, and probably needs some exercise, too! However, walking a dog in the winter—and especially on ice—creates unique problems that don’t exist in the summer. Your dog’s paws can be damaged by rough ice, and many dogs are not able to take long winter walks. You can safely walk your dog by caring properly for their paws, and making sure both you and your dog are ready for the cold weather.

Part1
Preparing Your Dog to Walk in Cold Conditions

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    Trim the hair on your dog’s paws. This is especially relevant if your dog has longer hair. Excess hair on a dog’s paws—especially between the pads on its feet—will freeze and become clogged with ice. This is painful for your dog, and will take away much of their traction when walking on ice.[1]
    • Once you have trimmed the hair, you can apply a thin layer of protective balm to your dog’s feet. This will protect your dog’s paws and prevent the fur from freezing. Protective balms are available from all pet retail stores.
    • If you can’t find a protective balm, Vaseline is an acceptable substitute.[2]
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    Buy a set of booties for your dog. There are many retailers which sell dog booties; a reliable set can be found inexpensively. Dog booties will prevent your dog’s sensitive paws from being cut or scratched, which can easily happen when your dog is walking on top of coarse ice.[3]
    • A good set of booties will also improve your dog’s traction on ice and give them better traction in slick areas.
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    Consider buying a sweater or coat for your dog. Although this will not help protect their feet, it will keep them from getting cold or, worse, experiencing hypothermia.[4]Certain breeds of dogs are more adapted to live in the snow (e.g. huskies and other long-haired breeds); these breeds are less likely to need a coat.
    • Buy your dog a coat especially if they are going to run through snow (which will get on their fur and then melt, leaving them wet) or if they will walk through a stream or puddle.
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    Put a brightly colored vest on the dog. Just as it’s important for you to be easily visible to passing cars, your dog should be too. Many dog vests are sold with reflective material
    • Alternately, you could buy a dog collar with reflective material. This will also improve your dog’s visibility, and is less cumbersome than a vest.
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    Train your dog not to pull. This will reduce the likelihood of a fall, as your dog will be less likely to jerk the leash in your hand and pull you off balance.
    • If your dog pulls on the leash consistently, consider buying an extendable/retractable leash. This will allow your dog to run ahead on ice without pulling you to the ground.

Part2
Walking your Dog on Ice

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    Shorten your walk. Many dogs—especially those with shorter hair—do not have the endurance to take as long of a walk as they would in summer.[5] Over time, you’ll get to learn your dog’s limits—while a 30-minute walk may be fine for some dogs, for others, it will be difficult and cold.
    • If your dog has long hair or has been bred for cold temperatures, this may not be an issue. In fact, they may prefer walks in the winter, because they are less likely to become overheated!
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    Avoid chemicals on the ice. If you’re walking your dog on a road (even in a rural location) or sidewalk, there will likely be chemicals on the path. These are sprayed to melt the ice more quickly, but are poisonous to your dog.[6]
    • These chemicals can harm the pads on your dog’s paws and, more seriously, cause severe medical problems if ingested.
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    Walk in places where you and your dog can find traction. In addition to having the potential to cut or freeze the pads of your dog’s feet, ice is also slippery. To decrease the risk of falling for both you and your dog, walk on areas with higher traction.
    • Snow can also provide some traction; it’s much less slippery than ice. If you have a choice between walking on ice and walking on 1-2 inches of snow, always choose snow.
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    Clean your dog’s paws after the walk. If you applied any substances to your dog’s feet, you’ll need to wash the paws off after the walk.
    • Dogs often lick their feet after a walk, and the substances you’ve put on the feet may not be healthy when ingested.
    • Even if you didn’t apply anything to the paws directly, they could still use a cleaning. The salt and chemicals commonly sprayed on sidewalks and roads are harmful to dogs’ feet, and need to be cleaned off.[7]
    • If you put booties on your dog’s feet, you’ll simply need to remove the booties; no cleanup required.
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    Get a good pair of winter boots. These are different from hiking boots: winter boots have thick soles (for traction) and provide insulation to keep your feet warm. A good pair of winter boots should cover your ankle; some come partway up your calf.
    • Instead of winter boots, you can also buy shoe attachments that provide traction on ice. These come in various forms (some have small ice spikes on the bottom), but they strap on to the bottom of your hiking boots.
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    Wear several layers. In winter settings, it’s important to keep your body warm by wearing warm winter clothing. Focus on layering, rather than wearing a single coat—with layers, if you get too hot, you can take off one layer at a time. You should wear:
    • A warm winter coat.
    • A sweater or light jacket under your coat.
    • Gloves.
    • Long underwear or snow pants.
    • A warm winter hat.
    • Even if you are already wearing warm hiking boots, you should also wear a pair of wool socks. Wool will keep you warm even if it’s wet, so wool socks are much better than cotton in winter.
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    Walk safely. Since you will be walking on ice, there are certain tips you can follow to walk safely and without risk of falling. The primary concern is adjusting your center of gravity and weight, to avoid the risk of slipping on ice.[8]
    • When on ice, lean slightly forward. This will keep your feet from flying out from under you.
    • Walk flat-footed to give yourself as much traction on the ice as possible.
    • Your arms are helpful in adjusting your balance. When on ice, keep your arms out of your pockets so you can flail them if necessary.[9]
    • You can even walk with your arms extended to your sides; this will maximize your balance.
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    Wear a bright color at night so cars can see you. Walking at night can be dangerous if you are not wearing bright or, ideally, reflective clothing. It’s important to consider your dog’s safety before starting a nighttime winter walk.
    • Many different clothing brands sell reflective clothing; look especially for a jacket with reflective stripes on the back.

How to Walk a Stubborn Dog

Walking with your dog can be one of the most enjoyable experiences, but if your dog is stubborn and refuses to go for a walk or be calm on the walk, the experience can quickly turn frustrating for both of you. Remember, dogs want to behave just as much as we want them to, so it's up to you to figure out what the problem is. Your dog might need training, it might have a medical condition, or it might just need a bit of stimulation.

Method1
Changing Your Dog’s Behavior

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    Reward your dog for desired behaviors. Rather than scold your dog for not doing what you want, reward your dog for doing what you do want. By rewarding good behavior, you’re teaching your dog that they will receive a reward for doing something, and they will begin to positively associate good behavior with going for walks. On the other hand, if you yell at or hit your dog, they will only associate walks with something bad and become even more resistant.[1]
    • Yelling at your dog or physically disciplining them is never going to yield desired results. It will only make them fearful and anxious.
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    Use small training treats and a click trainer. Dogs, like people, form associations between behaviors and positive experiences. When you reward your dog for desired behaviors, consider using small training treats and a click trainer. Wait until your dog has performed the behavior you want, such as walking forward, and then quickly, almost in unison, click the trainer and then offer the dog a small training treat. Your dog will associate walking forward with the click sound and treat, and ultimately you will be able to reward with a click sound rather than treat.[2]
    • Use training treats, or break a large, soft treat up into small pieces. Training treats are small and soft by design so that they can be a reward, not be a distraction, and not fill your dog up.
    • Click trainers are inexpensive and can be found at all pet stores.
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    Take charge of your dog. Taking charge simply means establishing that you are the dominant figure in the relationship between you and your dog. You will not take charge by hitting, kicking, yelling, or physically intimidating your dog. By being the person with the treats, the leash, the click trainer, the commands, and the person responsible for feeding and housing the dog, you’re already in the dominant position. When you’re on a walk with your stubborn dog, maintain that power dynamic by calmly giving commands and leading your dog where you’d like it to go.[3]
    • You might get frustrated with your stubborn dog, but that’s no reason to lose your cool. Keep calm and focused, showing your dog that you’re in charge.
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    Use the leash as a tool. The leash is, for all intents and purposes, an extension of your arm and an invaluable tool. The leash is an effective way for you to communicate what you want your dog to do, while making sure that they don’t leave your side when excited.[4]
    • Put your hand through the leash and also wrap it once around your right hand.
    • Hold the slack in the leash with your left hand.
    • Gently pull on the leash if you need to so that you can remind your dog to behave.
    • Never yank or pull hard on the leash and never hit your dog with the leash.
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    Pair verbal and non-verbal commands. Pairing a verbal command with a non-verbal command is the most effective way to tell your dog what you want them to do. When you teach your dog the commands, pair the verbal command with a hand signal and a training treat. Ultimately you will remove the treats and just use the hand signals and verbal commands.[5]
    • You can teach your stubborn dog the “let’s go” command, which indicates that you’re both going to walk forward.
    • You can also teach the “stop” command, which alerts your dog that they are to stop walking.

Method2
Evaluating Your Dog’s Health

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    Consider that your dog may be in pain. Your dog may be resisting going for walks, but it might not be because they’re stubborn, but because they are in pain. If your dog has gradually or even suddenly decided it is no longer interested in walks, this change in behavior could be a good indicator that they’re hurting. Get your dog to the veterinarian for an examination.
    • Your dog could have arthritis, which is a painful condition involving the joints.
    • Your dog may have sustained an injury, such as to the pad of their foot or to a muscle or tendon.
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    Have your dog evaluated for dementia. Dogs, like people, can develop diseases, such as Alzheimer’s and dementia, that impact how they sense the world around them. If your dog becomes fearful of going for walks or their behavior changes, take your dog to a veterinarian for evaluation.[6]
    • These are progressive diseases, and your vet will discuss any and all viable treatment options.
    • Even if you are only able to tell your vet that your dog seems “off” or “different”, with a few examples, may be enough to help them determine if your dog likely has dementia or not.
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    Treat your dog for anxiety. Some dogs have anxiety, and if your dog is one that does, your dog may appear stubborn when you try to take it for a walk. Because dogs can’t articulate themselves verbally, it might be difficult to distinguish between anxiety and stubborn behavior. Take your dog to the vet and explain the behavior changes. Your vet may prescribe anti-anxiety medications that should help your dog be more comfortable going for walks.[7]
    • Some signs of anxiety in dogs include panting, curling their tail between their legs, drooling, crouching low to the ground, and hiding.

Method3
Challenging Your Dog Mentally

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    Take a new route. Just like people, dogs can get bored easily. Your dog may be acting stubborn on walks because it is bored. Take a different route on your walk, or go to another park or neighborhood altogether for your walk. Even walking the same neighborhood but in a different pattern may be enough to make the trip exciting again for your pup.[8]
    • Try taking the route that you normally take but in reverse, if possible.
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    Go to a new location. Another way to mentally stimulate your dog is to take it to a new place for a run or walk. Introducing your dog to new sights, sounds, and smells stimulates your dog mentally and physically, and should make them eager for that walk that they’ve been resisting.[9]
    • Check if your county or city has a dog park.
    • There might also be a state or national park nearby that allows dogs.
    • Even if you take your dog to a designated off-leash area, make sure that you have a leash on hand at all times.
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    Use reverse psychology. Your dog may expect that they know exactly how this is all going to happen: you’re going to put the leash on them, you’re going to start walking, and you’re going to take that same boring route that you always take. Instead, give your dog the stay command and make them hold the position. Then, tell your dog to go, rewarding them for moving. This simple “reboot” in your walking routine might be just the trick to getting your dog to walk without issues.[10]
    • You will need to decide early on what commands you’ll use with your dog, including what you’ll use for “stay” and “go.”
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    Desensitize your dog. Your dog may be a stubborn walker because they fear some part of the experience, be it the leash, passing cars, or simply walking around outside their home. Desensitization is a lengthy process in which you introduce your dog to graduating levels of the stimuli that they fear. The idea is that as they become comfortable with a low level of the stimuli, you add a bit more until they are again comfortable. Desensitizing your dog may be the key to your dog becoming happy to go on walks.[11]
    • Desensitization takes a lot of patience. Don’t expect results overnight and don’t lose your cool if your dog doesn’t respond right away.
    • Make sure that you don’t overwhelm your dog and that you introduce small, graduating levels of the stimulus.
    • For example, if your dog is uncomfortable with unfamiliar people, invite someone to come over to your house and sit in the yard, maybe in a chair while reading a book.
    • Keep your dog on leash away from the person and allow them to smell the air. As they get comfortable, take a step toward the person, moving slightly closer every time your dog appears comfortable.
    • Ultimately, your dog should be close enough that you can introduce your friend to the dog without a fear response from your pup.
    • Don’t force your dog to approach the person. You follow their lead, not the other way around.